Last Friday, some friends and I
converged upon a certain pan-Asian North Park eatery, whose exterior wall is
adorned with a mural of a hipster gremlin riding atop a pink Tyrannosaurus-Rex, where we enjoyed refreshing cocktails along with zesty noodles, savory won-tons, and
spicy chicken. Despite the rain
outside, it truly was a lovely evening, as everyone in our party of eleven
deported themselves in a convivial and garrulous manner. In fact, even before the appetizers
arrived there were moments when, I admit, some of my dining companions became a
bit over-animated and perhaps unnecessarily clamorous, as passionate as they
were about their conversation.
More than once, eyes turned toward
our table, but we paid them no mind.
It’s a capacious space, where the music and the chatter from tables
merges to create an ambient hum that dulls the impact of all but the shrillest
outbursts.
As the dishes were passed around
the table and the drinks refilled, my cohorts became even more
rambunctious. They gesticulated
wildly, and brayed at each other across the table. They clumsily switched seats with one another, upsetting
cups and dragging their sleeves through saucy platters in their urgency to
interact closely with this diner or to escape the attention of that one.
When they began crawling under the
table to switch positions or chase down a reluctant companion, I reached my
limit. I hissed at them to please
exhibit some decorum, despite their high spirits. As I said, the atmosphere in the restaurant was lively; but
we were now drawing unwanted attention, and more than one look that could be
described as “the stinkeye.” I was
sure that, were the hour later, the very patrons who now cast sidelong glances
would have been far more boisterous than my young compatriots; nonetheless, I
didn’t want to create any ill will if I could help it.
As more diners arrived and the
noise level relative to our table ascended, I ceased worrying about our party
creating a disturbance: in any case, my previous admonitions, and those of
other, more sober, companions, seemed to have had the desired effect on the
rabble-rousers among us.
A contingent of the most ebullient
of the young ladies in our group announced that they needed to retire to the
restroom: so my male friend and I escorted them, lest they become distracted,
lost, or simply begin eating off the plates of strangers. As my friend and I prepared
ourselves to subdue them, they gamboled to the restroom happily,
hand-in-hand. Adorable.
Their business in the lavatory
having transpired uneventfully, we set out on our return trip to the table.
And then it happened: the
aforementioned shrillest outburst. It arose first from the lungs of one of
our three petite companions like the mighty cry of a sea eagle. Then it escalated as if the sea eagle
were joined by a fire engine.
Finally, when it seemed that the shriek could get no louder, the third
girl opened her mouth, and an air raid siren wailed loudly enough that I was
concerned about the plate glass on the storefront.
As the three tiny banshees
synchronized their battle cry, they took to their heels, sprinting the breadth
of the vast floor of the department-store-turned-restaurant. My male friend lit off after them,
chanting, “NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!”
But it was too late. Every
eye in the restaurant turned toward the tiny procession that somehow produced
the sound of a ship’s whistle trying to drown out a foghorn.
As for myself, I took quite the
opposite tack of my friend. I
strolled casually toward my seat, and when diners craned their necks to see
whence came the bedlam that disrupted their repast, I contorted my face to
mirror their grimaces, shrugged my shoulders in empathetic bewilderment,
plugged my ears, winced, and said loudly, “I’ve never heard such a racket! Whose children are they, anyway?!”
I may have fooled some of the
customers, but the waiter rolled his eyes: he had seen the culprits sitting on
my lap and eating from my plate.
The diners in adjacent tables, several of whom happened to be
acquaintances, also recognized me as the father of two of the three feral
children. There was no way I could
get away clean. So I sat back down
with my family and our friends, and told my daughters that they were never
again to play “Satan’s Fire Truck” in a crowded restaurant. Did they take the message to
heart? We shall see, the next time
we go out to dinner.
Some of the parents in our group
were mortified by the spectacle our girls had created, but soon enough, a rowdy
group of adults on the other side of the restaurant started shout-singing in
the most cacophonous manner—something about “Happy Birthday to so-and-so,”
followed by a cheer that reminded one of the drunken bellowing of spectators at
a cockfight.
“Ugh,” I said. “What do those people think this place
is? Charles Cheese’s Pizza
Theater, or whatever that dreadful place is called?”
Anyway, I felt vindicated that the
so-called grownups proved just as disruptive as our little darlings, and not
nearly as cute.
This silliness originally appeared in our hyper-local newspaper, San Diego Uptown News.
********
I also have a piece up on The Atlantic right now. It's about sex and household chores.
Here's a teaser:
This is perhaps the most crucial
lesson I’ve learned from my parents’ marriage, now in its 55th
year. I didn’t actually hear it
articulated until after I had already been with my wife for over a decade; but
I had apparently absorbed the lesson through the years, because by the time I
heard the formula expressed, I realized that I had been applying it in my own
relationship all along. And, like
my dad, I cared the most about very few potentially contentious issues.
When I read Alexandra
Bradner’s “Some Theories on Why
Men Don’t Do as Many Household Tasks” on the Atlantic, particularly her bullet
points enumerating the “categories of invisible labor” that couples should be
striving to divide equally, it struck me that the “Whoever Cares Most” maxim
determines most of how the labor is split up in my own marriage, and—I
assume—in those of many others. It
would seem that, based on the scores of conversations I’ve had whenever one of
these articles about the glacial progress toward labor equality in the home
makes the rounds, women tend to care more about many of the issues these chores
address than men do. For their passion
about these elements of household governance, they are awarded the dubious
victory of being in charge of them.
And in being in charge, they tend to follow another, sometimes
self-defeating axiom: “If you want it done right, do it yourself.”

I'm just waiting for the day someone asks me in a supermarket or in a restaurant, "What do you think this is? A playground?" Because the answer will obviously be, "Yes!"
ReplyDeleteAnd in honor of you girls, next time I'm in a restaurant, I'll do the Satan's Fire Truck.
Now if I could just get Satan's Fire Truck as a ring tone. THAT would be something. "Yeah, I'm getting a call here people."
ReplyDeleteAs for our little ones, I remember a co-worker rolling his eyes at the pics of another's kids. "Ugh, do we really have to look at more kids pics?", he sighed. I pleasantly told him it was nice to know he was never a child, and that his parents were never proud of him at all. Jerk.
You care, that's all that matters. Trying seems to be the best evidence that we're not cavemen, and our children have free run of anything. Though these days, it seems like I should be teaching my kids the same amount of cavemanery as etiquette with the way some people act.
Jason
The Cheeky Daddy
Satan's Fire Truck. Ha! The shrieking will be the end of me some day.
ReplyDeleteI needed all those words. Nicely done.
ReplyDeleteSadly, I'm the Voice of Tartarus. More ancient and more primal than my own Shrill Satanettes, with an echo to match. In restaurants the stinkeye is reserved for Old Mommy Moaner, because my corrections ring a wee bit louder than the infractions.
Didn't your band open for Satan's Fire Truck at some point? Or was it just Gwar?
ReplyDeleteDude, I founded Satan's Fire Truck!
Delete